קולטור

Food

Vegetarish-dietisher kokhbukh (Vegetarian Cookbook), by Fania Lewando (Vilna: G. Kleckina, 1938) YIVO

Vegetarish-dietisher kokhbukh (Vegetarian Cookbook), by Fania Lewando (Vilna: G. Kleckina, 1938)YIVO

Table of contents

To Eat or Not to Eat... That is a Jewish Question!

The subject of food is everywhere in Jewish culture. Food has always been an important part of our traditions. Think back to Adam and Eve, the story to begin all stories in the Torah. After God creates Man and Woman, he creates for them the Garden of Eden, instructing them:

"Of every tree of the Garden you may freely eat; but of the tree of the knowledge of good and evil, you shall not eat of it"

This is the very first indication that there are some foods that you can eat, and others that you must not. This will then extend to become a more generic principle: there will always be some limits put upon human behavior.

Food has always meant more than just what we eat for lunch or dinner. Throughout history, we have assigned a very special meaning to the foods that we eat. Foods have been given religious significance, medicinal significance, and folkloric significance. We have 'comfort food', 'home remedies', and 'aphrodisiacs'. The choice "to eat or not to eat" is one that each of us confronts today. For example, someone may choose vegetarianism, deciding that the foods they eat in some way represent their compassion for animals, or even their political ideals. Observing the Jewish dietary laws - keeping kosher - is another way of positively determining what is acceptable or unacceptable as foodstuff. By looking at a group's food, we can learn about their values and their ethics.This information can offer us an opportunity to think about the purpose of the rules observed and the underlying principles on which they are based. Further, in Jewish tradition there is a code of behavior that accompanies what we eat and the meals that we prepare. Abraham, the father of this tradition, received three strange visitors to his home one night. The hospitality that he showed them by inviting them to sit at his table, sharing his bread and his meat with them, is instructive: we must know what to eat, but also who to eat with and how to share.

What is Jewish Food?

With Jewish communities spread all over the world, what exactly is Jewish food? When Sephardic Jews taste the well-known Ashkenazi "gefilte fish" (stuffed fish), often served at Passover, they comment on its tasteless quality. Their cuisine is known for sharper seasoning. But even among Ashkenazi Jews, gefilte fish has several styles: it can be salted or sweet, and it has entered the folklore as a delicacy. If Polish Jews and Iranian Jews, for instance, each have their own set of food customs, what common customs about food do different Jewish traditions share?

The basic food customs shared by traditional Jews the world over are centered on the Jewish dietary laws. Using these dietary laws as a base, Jews have embraced and adapted some of the foods native to their new lands. Using these they have created a new, distinctly Jewish cuisine, in every land where they settled.

Kashres, Yiddish for "The Dietary Laws"
Kashres and Tarfes - "Clean and Unclean"

The Jewish dietary laws mandate both the types of permissible food, as well as the proper ways in which it must be prepared and eaten. These laws, kashres in Yiddish and kashrut in Hebrew, find their source in the Tanakh, though most of the laws were derived through rabbinic interpretation over thousand of years.

The foundation of kashres is the prohibition against eating particular animals. Several classes of birds, fish, and other animals are considered treyf (unclean) and are not permissible to eat. These animals are either explicitly mentioned in the Bible, or fall under a category outlined there.

“Exterminate flies. They spread diseases. Keep your home and yard clean. Cover your food.” Yiddish poster. Artwork by S. Nichamkin. Printed by Paul Schöpf, Berlin, 1927, with the aid of the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee, and distributed in Eastern Europe by OZE.YIVO

What's Treyf? What's "Unclean" and "Unacceptable"?

Written By:
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The laws of Kashres generally serve to label treyf any animal whose form appears inconsistent with a  articular pattern. For example: mammals that chew their cud and have cloven hooves are permissible (cows, sheep. goats). while mammals that have just one of these traits. but not the other. are considered treyf (pigs have a
cloven hoof. but do not chew their cud. Camels chew their cud but do not have cloven hooves—neither are considered kosher). For fish. the rule is that they must have both scales and fins to be
considered kosher. Any fish that has one but not the other. or neither. is considered treyf.

Birds - Fleyshik
NON-KOSHER
KOSHER
  • Eagle
  • Hawk
  • Heron
  • Kite
  • Lapwing
  • Ostrich
  • Owl
  • Pelican
  • Stork
  • Swan
  • Chicken
  • Dove
  • Duck
  • Goose
  • Pigeon
  • Quail
  • Turkey
Other animals - Fleyshik
NON-KOSHER
KOSHER
  • Amphibians
  • Bat
  • Bear
  • Camel
  • Dolphin
  • Donkey
  • Horse
  • Most insects
  • Pig
  • Rabbit
  • Reptiles
  • Rodents
  • Snail
  • Squid
  • Antelope
  • Buffalo
  • Cow
  • Deer
  • Goat
  • Locusts
  • Sheep
Fish - Pareve
NON-KOSHER
KOSHER
  • Amphibians
  • Bat
  • Bear
  • Camel
  • Dolphin
  • Donkey
  • Horse
  • Most insects
  • Pig
  • Rabbit
  • Reptiles
  • Rodents
  • Snail
  • Squid
  • Antelope
  • Buffalo
  • Cow
  • Deer
  • Goat
  • Locusts
  • Sheep

Milchik, Fleyshik, and Pareve - Dairy, Meat, and Neutral - The Jewish Kitchen

Young women in aprons prepare a meal (Soviet Union, 1930s).
Young women in aprons prepare a meal (Soviet Union, 1930s).

The basic prohibition against mixing dairy products with meat products is derived through rabbinic interpretation. Why? This rule is derived from the statement in the Torah, "Thou shalt not cook a calf in its mother's milk". The ethical consciousness this rule brings is special. Even if the natural and animal worlds are made to serve humans, it is mandated that there should still be limits to rule Jewish behavior. Because of the exacting rules of kashres, the kosher Jewish kitchen contains many more cooking tools than the average kitchen, since separate meat and dairy dishes and utensils are required.

Shechitah - Laws Concerning Ritual Slaughter

Emblem of the Jewish Butchers Guild
Emblem of the Jewish Butchers Guild, a crowned lion with a meat hatchet and stars of David (Prague, date unknown) Courtesy of the Prague Jewish Museum.

The slaughter of animals to be cooked for kosher food must be highly regulated. The slaughtering process starts with concern about the inspection of the animals, followed by the knives to be used. The laws of shechitah outline in specific detail exactly how an animal should be slaughtered in order to qualify as kosher. The specificity of the laws accounts for the emergence of a very important character in Jewish communal life: the shoychet. Jews, unlike their non-Jewish neighbors, could not themselves just pick a chicken from their yard to use to prepare a meal. Neither could they hunt an animal to kill and cook for a meal. Traditional Jews the world over depend on a shoychet to inspect all animals according to the extensive Jewish laws, to possess and properly maintain kosher knives. In these ways the shoychet renders meat kosher for the community.

From the Old Rules to the New "Cuisine" - Where a Jewish Meal Begins

A shoykhet (ritual slaughterer) sharpening the khalef (slaughtering knife).
A shoykhet (ritual slaughterer) sharpening the khalef (slaughtering knife). Photo: Irving Berkey for the Forward (1926).

Another familiar figure in the market was the kosher butcher, the katzef; but he had an altogether different image. The katzef was a simple salesman who handled the food. Responsibility for keeping food kosher continued at home, where the meat has to be salted and soaked in prescribed ways. Only after that process can the cooking begin. So, any kosher meat required a shoychet, as well as a housewife who knew how to keep the rules at home. Today, most of the salting and soaking is done at the butcher store, and the meat delivered ready to cook.

Shabes - The Seventh Day: Rest

An agricultural colony family standing beside their table set for an outdoor Sabbath meal in Manzar, Bessarabia (now Moldova) 1920s.
An agricultural colony family standing beside their table set for an outdoor Sabbath meal in Manzar, Bessarabia (now Moldova) 1920s.

Shabes (Yiddish), Shabbat (Hebrew), begins at sundown every Friday night, and continues through nightfall on Saturday. Commemorating the six days of divine creation, the seventh day was commanded as a day of rest. To keep within this spirit, no activity construed as "work" is accepted for the Sabbath. Definitions of "work" include, most significantly, food preparation, as it usually begins with the prohibitions against starting any fire (including electricity). The Sabbath's prayers and learning are organized around three meals (Friday night, Saturday afternoon and early evening- shaleshudes) all of which must be prepared before nightfall on Friday. The traditional Shabes foods emerged from creative exploration within these guidelines.

The Sabbath is the strongest, most distinct Jewish double pillar of ritual and folklore. This holy rest day evokes each week the creation of the world, and fosters a special consciousness expressed by sanctifying the foodstuff extracted from this created world. While detailed traditions around the Sabbath may have been forgotten by some, including the special Shabes meals, which are accompanied by blessings and songs, the spirit of the day has remained as a central tenet of Jewish tradition with its special food characteristics. The most central parts are:

Wine and Challah

Portrait of Jewish bakers in the "M. S. Mandla's Bakery" (Tarnow, Poland, 1902).
Portrait of Jewish bakers in the "M. S. Mandla's Bakery" (Tarnow, Poland, 1902).

First and foremost is the wine for the Kiddush (blessing, in Hebrew) and the challot - the two braided breads that grace every Shabes table. Jews took with them their tradition of using this ritual bread wherever they moved, and Poland was no exception. Often, the dough was kneaded on Thursday or very early on Friday, left to rise, and then baked before the Sabbath.

Tsholent

Women carry tsholent (a dish of meat, potatoes and beans) to the baker's oven on Friday afternoon
Women carry tsholent (a dish of meat, potatoes and beans) to the baker's oven on Friday afternoon, where the heat retained by the oven will slowly cook the tsholent and keep it hot for the meal on Saturday, when traditional Jews avoid cookin. Bialystok, Poland (now Belarus) 1932.

Tsholent (sometimes spelled cholent), the Sabbath stew, is representative of the Ashkenazi Shabes meal. It is a hearty, meaty stew prepared a day in advance and left to slow cook on a burner or in the oven overnight. The smell of the tsholent pot whetted the appetites of hungry Jews returning from synagogue prayers on Saturday afternoon.

Gefilte Fish

Studio portrait of a bagel vendor with a basket of his wares in Kishinev, Bessarabia (now Moldova) circa 1900.
Studio portrait of a bagel vendor with a basket of his wares in Kishinev, Bessarabia (now Moldova) circa 1900.

Gefilte fish (stuffed fish), perhaps the food most associated with Eastern European Jewry to this day, is also the traditional first dish of any Shabes or holiday meal. There is a tradition that festivities should be celebrated with "Boser v'dogim" (meat and fish, in Hebrew), food delicacies to mark the special day. The name, "stuffed fish", comes from the original preparation of the dish, which dates back to the Middle Ages in Germany. Chopped freshwater whitefish (usually carp or pike) was cooked and then stuffed back into the fish skin. Later, the skin was omitted and just the fish stuffing became the dish. Some Jews today continue to use carp, and stuff minced fish into the middle. There are many variations of the gefilte fish recipe: Polish Jews generally prepare it with a sugary taste, while the Lithuanians prefer it peppery. This distinction was the source of countless minor domestic disturbances, but most householdsstill would agree on serving gefilte fish with a healthy dose of khreyn, the grated horseradish-beet sauce.

Holidays and Holiday Meals

New Year card featuring the "Tree of Life", with each fruit representing a different virtue for the year to come (circa 1910).
New Year card featuring the "Tree of Life", with each fruit representing a different virtue for the year to come (circa 1910).

The cultural and religious organization of the Jewish year is marked by celebration and commemoration of many holidays, some religious and some historical. Traditional Jews observe this calendar, combining their formal communal prayers in the synagogue, with gatherings at home for special meals. Some holidays, like Passover (Peysekh, in Yiddish) and Succoth center more distinctly on meals, while others, like Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur, rely more on the communal synagogue prayers. But each holiday has special foods associated with it.

Learn about the holidays listed below and the foods that accompany them:

Rosh Hashanah

The New Year on the Jewish calendar is celebrated for two days in September or early October. The traditional foods of this holiday are symbolic of the qualities that are hoped for the oncoming year: sweetness, roundness, and fullness.

The Round Challah

The Rosh Hashanah challah is often round like a circle, with no beginning or end, much like the calendar year that has just ended and the new one that has just begun. It can also be braided like a ladder, to remind us that we should aspire to ascend to greater heights in the new year. This challah is usually baked with raisins, providing extra sweetness for a sweet new year. On the table there also will be honey, in which apples and the bread are dipped.

Women on a riverbank, performing tashlekh, a Rosh Hashanah ritual
Women on a riverbank, performing tashlekh, a Rosh Hashanah ritual in which Jews gather at a stream and shake out their pockets as a symbol of washing away their sins. Today, tashlekh is often observed by throwing bread crumbs into a stream (Lithuania, 1920s).

Tsimmes

One Rosh Hashanah dish particularly popular among Eastern European Jews is tsimmes, a sweet carrot stew. In addition to sweetness, the carrots here also symbolize reproduction, as mern, the Yiddish word for carrots, also shares that meaning. A typical recipe for tsimmes calls for the carrot to be sliced and cooked with honey or jam.

Fruits

The pomegranate, another Rosh Hashanah food symbol in addition to the apple. Its many seeds represent fertility, on the one hand, and, on the other, the 613 commandments of the Torah. Would you want to count the seeds to corroborate this?

Fish

In Eastern European Jewish tradition, fish are often cooked and served with the head intact, to symbolize the beginning of the coming year.

Succoth

The harvest festival of "booths", lasts eight days and usually falls at the end of October. Succoth is celebrated within a sukkah, the temporary dwelling built outside of one's home, where all meals are eaten. As a harvest festival, special significance is placed on all fruits and vegetables prepared and eaten in the sukkah.

Hannukah

Hannukah commemorates the victory of a relatively small group of Jews against a Hellenist army in Jerusalem in 165 BCE. This short-lived victory, considered by many to be a miracle, coincided with the rededication of the Holy Temple. Oily foods are common because those Jews who recovered the desecrated Holy Temple, found a small quantity of oil that lasted burning miraculously for eight days. The celebration of Hanukkah, therefore, lasts eight days and features the lighting of one new candle per night, until you are lighting eight together. The foods eaten on Hanukkah emphasize oil, recalling the miraculous oil of the Hanukkah story. Eastern European Jews eat latkes (potato pancakes), fried in oil. In Israel, the custom is to eat sufganiyot (deep-fried donuts).

Poster announcing "A Great Purim Ball in Vilna, on the 18th of March" (Vilna, 1940s).
Poster announcing "A Great Purim Ball in Vilna, on the 18th of March" (Vilna, 1940s).

Purim

A festive holiday, usually falling in March, which commemorates the saving of the Jews of Persia in antiquity. Slated for murder by Haman, one of the King's henchmen, the Jews were saved by the queen herself, Ester, a Jew, and her uncle Mordechai. Purim is a joyous holiday and is celebrated by the exchange of food gifts, shalakhmones (mishloah manot in Hebrew). The traditional meal at Purim is the only one in which wine is featured plentifully.

Hamentashn

These triangular pastries are most associated as an Eastern European Jewish food on Purim. The triangular shape is said to represent the hat worn by Haman in Ancient Persia. The pastries traditionally have a sweet poppy filling (mon, in Yiddish); and this play on words, Hamontoshn is likely the source of the name of the cookie.

Passover

No other holiday is as defined in its essence by food. Another eight-day holiday, Passover usually falls in April. It commemorates the Jewish exodus from slavery in Egypt immortalized in the Bible. It is also the holiday with the richest food traditions and use of food symbolism: beginning with the extreme care with which food must be prepared. Commemorating the Jews' flight from Egypt (with no time to prepare leavened bread), during these eight days it is forbidden to eat bread. Special crackers - matzah - only are allowed instead of bread. Passover has its own set of highly complex dietary laws, designed to avoid the eating of any chometz (leavened bread). Among Eastern European Jews, chometz has been defined as including rice, dried corn, dried beans, lentils, and legumes. This presents an interesting challenge in the preparation of a week's meals. In addition to having its own set of dietary laws, Passover requires its own full set of kosher dishes and pans. In some homes this required the retrieval of a very special set of dishes from storage, used only for the Passover week. In other homes, it meant that some kitchen utensils and dishes had to undergo the process of being kashered, which usually involved being boiled in order to best clean and rid them of any of the chometz they might have touched.

Matzah

The unleavened cracker-like bread Jews eat at Passover, has strict rules governing its manufacture. The main meals - the Seder meals - are full of traditional foodstuffs. There is a special reading of the story of Exodus, as well, that is often chanted with many melodies. The seder offers the opportunity to discuss Jewish history and ethical behavior between children and adults.

Shavuot

Shavuot commemorates the delivery of the Torah by God to the Jews at Mt. Sinai. Shavuot is celebrated over two days each spring. Traditional Shavuot meals emphasize dairy foods, like blintzes.

Two Favorite Eastern European Jewish Recipes

Gefilte Fish

Jewish Passover - Gefilte Fish

As you may know, this typical dish, used on the Sabbath and Jewish Holidays, has a few variations. The most striking variation is the conflict between the fish as prepared by Litvaks (Lithuanian Jews) and the Galitsianers (South-Eastern Polish Jews). The first is a saltier version, while the second is a sweeter one. We are still debating the pros and cons of each. Accompany with a healthy dose of khreyn, a horseradish sauce, mild (pink, mixed with beetroots) or sharp (white).

Ingredients

For Fish:

  • 2 lb. Cod or Carp plus 1 lb. Haddock
  • 2 medium onions
  • 4 eggs
  • Medium-sized roll of old bread. Soaked, with water wrung out.

For Stock:

  • 1 small onion
  • 3 celery sticks
  • carrots thick sliced
  • Salt and pepper for both fish and stock

For Galitsianer version:

  • Add 2 teaspoon of sugar for fish; and 2 teaspoons of sugar for stock.

Prep

  • Put a large pot full of water to boil, add the celery sticks, carrots, onion; bring to boil. Add salt and pepper (sugar optional). You can also add fish bones for a more flavorful stock.
  • Mince fish, onions, and bread; add eggs, salt and pepper (sugar optional).
  • Make medium balls of the fish. wetting your hands in water, and put into boiling stock Cook covered over low heat for at least 2 hours.

Hamentashn

Hamentashn Cookies

These triangular cookies are considered a delicacy and are served on Purim.

Ingredients

For Yeast Dough:

  • 1 envelope of active dry yeast
  • _ teaspoon sugar
  • _ cup warm water (110-115 degrees F.)
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 tablespoons oil
  • _ cup warm milk or pareve milk
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 5 cups flour
  • Honey

For Filling:

  • Poppy seed (mon, in Yiddish)
  • 1 cup poppy seeds
  • cup water
  • honey
  • cup chopped almonds
  • grated rind of a lemon
  • _ cup sugar (optional)
  • one tart apple, peeled and grated (optional)

Prep

For Yeast Dough:

  • Proof yeast with warm water and a little sugar.
  • In large mixing bowl, put all flour, beaten eggs, salt, oil, warm milk, sugar. Knead.
  • Cut dough with a little oil. cover with a moist towel and let stand for 1 hours in a warm, draft-free place.
  • Punch down the dough, knead, and let stand 10 more minutes.
  • Roll part into a _ inch thickness, cut out rounds.
  • Put filling in the middle, and fold up edges to form an equilateral triangle. Pinch together ends to seal.
  • Grease baking sheet - let stand for another _ hour
  • Bake for 1 hour, 350 F. In the last 15 minutes. take out and brush with beaten egg.

For Filling:

  • Poppy seed must be soaked 3 hours; rinsed and pureed in a food processor.
  • In saucepan, combine all ingredients except the apple. Cook over low heat until thick. Let cool.
  • Add grated apple - Filling is ready to use- You can add also raisins to it

דאָס ייִדישע עסן

עסן איז אין דער ייִדישער טראַדיציע דורכגעפֿלאָכטן מיט ריטואַל און באַטײַט. ס׳האָט זיך נאָך אָנגעהויבן מיט אָדמען און חוהן, די מעשׂה וואָס איז אַ יסוד פֿון אַלע מעשׂיות: נאָך דעם וואָס גאָט האָט באַשאַפֿן דעם מאַנספּאַרשוין מיט דער ווײַבספּאַרשוין האָט ער זיי געמאַכט דעם גן־עדן, און ער האָט אָדמען פֿאַרזאָגט:

„פֿון אַלע ביימער פֿון גאָרטן מעגסטו עסן; אָבער פֿונעם בוים פֿון וויסן גוטס און שלעכטס, פֿון אים זאָלסטו נישט עסן“.

דאָס איז דאָס ערשטע מאָל, וואָס טייל עסנוואַרג מעג מען עסן און אַנדערע נישט. אין דעם איז אַוודאי פֿאַראַן אַ העכערער פּרינציפּ: דער מענטשלעכער אויפֿפֿיר דאַרף האָבן אַ גרענעץ.

דאָס עסן האָט אַלע מאָל אַ ברייטערן באַטײַט ווי סתּם דאָס וואָס מע האָט צום מיטאָג אָדער צו דער וועטשערע. אין פֿאַרלויף פֿון דער געשיכטע האָט עסן געקראָגן אַ ספּעציעלן מיין; פֿאַרשיידענע מינים עסן האָבן באַקומען אַ רעליגיעזן באַטײַט, אַ מעדיציניש חשיבֿות און אַ פֿאָלקלאָריסטישן תּוכן. מיר האָבן מאכלים וואָס טרייסטן אונדז, וואָס זענען היימישע רפֿואות און ליבע־מיטלען. די ברירה „עסן אָדער נישט עסן“ שטייט פֿאַר אונדז ייִדן ביזן הײַנטיקן טאָג. למשל, איינער מעג ווערן אַ וועגעטאַריער און דורך דעם אַרויסווײַזן זײַן געפֿיל פֿון צער־בעלי־חיים אָדער זײַנע פּאָליטישע געדאַנקען. כּשרות איז אונדזער ייִדישער אופֿן צו דערקענען וואָס מע מעג און וואָס מע טאָר נישט עסן. לויט דעם וואָס אַ פֿאָלק עסט קען מען אַ סך דרינגען וועגן זײַנע עטישע ווערטן; דאָס גיט אונדז אַ געלעגנהייט צו באַטראַכטן דעם באַטײַט פֿון אָט די כּללים. ווײַטער איז דאָ אין דער ייִדישער טראַדיציע אַן אויפֿפֿיר־קאָדעקס וואָס גייט אין איינעם מיט דעם וואָס מיר עסן און וואָס מיר גרייטן צום עסן. אין אונדזער תּורה האָט אַבֿרהם אָבֿינו אײַנגעפֿירט די טראַדיציע, וווּ ער נעמט אויף אין אַ שיינער נאַכט דרײַ פֿרעמדע געסט. זײַן הכנסת־אורחים, דאָס וואָס ער פֿאַרבעט זיי צו עסן מיט אים בײַ איין טיש ווערט וויכטיק, און מע לערנט אונדז, אַז וואָס קען מען עסן, מיט וועמען און ווי אַזוי זיך צו טיילן מיטן עסן.

וואָס איז ייִדיש עסן?

אַזוי ווי ייִדן זענען צעזייט און צעשפּרייט איבער דער גאַנצער וועלט, ווי קען מען וויסן וואָס דאָס איז אַזוינס ייִדיש עסן? ווען אַ ספֿרדישער ייִד פֿאַרזוכט די באַקאַנטע אַשכּנזישע געפֿילטע פֿיש זאָגט ער באַלד, אַז זיי האָבן נישט קיין טעם; זײַנע מאכלים זענען שאַרפֿער. נאָר געפֿילטע פֿיש גרייט מען דאָך אויף פֿאַרשיידענע אופֿנים: מע באַווירצט מיט צוקער אָדער מיט פֿעפֿער; בײַ אַשכּנזים איז דאָס אַ דעליקאַטעס. אויב, אַ שטייגער, פּוילישע און פּערסישע ייִדן האָבן באַזונדערע קולינאַרע מינהגים, וואַָס זשע האָבן זיי בשותּפֿות? דער ענטפֿער איז כּשרות: וואָס עסט מען, ווען עסט מען עס, פֿאַר וואָס עסט מען עס, ווי גרייט מען עס צו, וואָס מישט מען נישט… עסן האָט אײַנגעוואָרצלט ייִדישע רוחניות. מיט כּשרות האָבן ייִדן אַדאָפּטירט, און אַדאַפּטירט, מאכלים פֿון די לענדער וווּ זיי האָבן זיך באַזעצט. אַ דאַנק דעם זענען אין יעדן לאַנד אויפֿגעקומען בפֿירוש ייִדישע מאכלים, וואָס ווי אַנדערש זיי זאָלן נישט זײַן טיילן זיי זיך מיט די געזעצן פֿון כּשרות .